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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 8:56 am 
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Hi everyone,
I went to the AMS 1/4 mile bullring oval for practice and to shake down the car. Keep in mind that I have not been in racing since late 2000 and have not driven a Legends Car since then. I am very familiar with them though.
This car that I purchased is in A-1 condition(or so it appears) and it is set up for oval racing(which I must have to change to road race). The car had a few things that I had to update to road race specs and it is all but completed other than a road race gear and set up.
I had a great practice with the car except for a couple of things that I need to look at. The car has been stored and not been raced for 6-8 months until this week. The car will constantly break traction coming off of the turns and this maybe due to the tires being hard or something. Is this a common problem even though the car has been inside this long? With this traction problem, I would have to gradually feather the throttle and if I went WOT before going to the flag stand or center of the straight, it would break traction again! Is it tires you think or too much motor? I did have the preferred gear and in the 4th as recommended.
The other problem was with the brakes. Since this was such a short and heavily braked track being it is flat, I think this led to the brake failure. It was like driving down two drag strips with a U-turn at each end. I was on the brakes a lot! Again, keep in mind about how long the car has been in storage and I am not sure what fluid is in the brake system. I think that I boiled the fluid. I was told that it could have water in it or that it is not High Temp racing fluid. What high temp fluid do you all think would be best for me to get? I deffinitely need this corrected before going to road race with the higher speeds.
All in all, I had a lot of fun and was impressed greatly with the car! I can't wait to go racing with many of you and learning more about this aspect of Legends Cars. Please give me any tips that you may have and I will greatly appreciate them. Later,Lane :D

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:32 am 
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Not sure about the tires and haven't done any oval racing. These cars do tend to get away from you at lower speeds due to their power and low grip tires though.

Sounds like everything you mentioned about the brakes is causing your problems there. Only thing I'd add is that the rear brakes usually need checked/adjusted a lot. Never had the brakes fade on me (on a road course) but after a few sessions I start noticing the rears not doing their share of the work.

I use Wildwood racing brake fluid.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2005 6:19 am 
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I am going to flush the fluid and put the WildWood Racing 570 temp fluid in since it is reasonable priced. The bottles are 12ozs, so how much do you think I need? I figured 4 bottles to flush and all. Anyone done this? Suggestions? Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 4:50 am 
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Had to flush and refill mine when I changed the lines this year. Four bottles should be enough. I'd check the lines real good for leaks before you start. If you have any lines that need replaced now would be the time to find/replace them.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 6:18 am 
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thanks Jeff

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 Post subject: Loss of traction
PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 8:54 am 
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Lane ,
Couple of things to check for....
1. Are tires camber cut?(and placed in the proper position)
2.If the tires are more than 1 year old they can harden up (date code on the inside sidewall)
3.is your pinion angle set to allow for maximum bite?
4.Is your weight different than the previous owners?(you may have to soften the rear springs)
....Brakes....
1. Are the shoe spreaders set with the star binding up in the spring? If not flip the spreader so the star binds up in the spring ,,this will stop the rear brakes from self adjusting.
2.4 bottles wilwood 570 should be plenty,I have never had this fluid boil!
3.Check and see if pads and shoes are glazed if so replace with a good semi-metallic pad (brakes have gotten a lot better since 2000)

!!!! and finally!!!!
If you truly feel like you have to much horsepower I am sure we can work out some sort of a motor swap..LOL :wink:
TomKatt

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 Post subject: additional info
PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 9:09 am 
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Lane,
Sorry I should have included this....
To read the date code find the series of #s that starts with ..ANL1. this is followed by a 4 digit # such as 2603. 2603 tells you that the tire was made in the 26th week of 2003. Also if you have a tire durometer guage and check them anything over a 76 is will lose grip in a heartbeat. Our rule book states we can run nothing less than a 58 and I have found most tires that I see out here on the west coast brand new are around 62-64.
Just something to look at.
TomKatt

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 2:03 pm 
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Tom,
I appreciate your advice. Dale Ritchie told me about the tires and I checked the code to find that it has "2104" which tells me that they dated roughly the first week of May 2004. I can't tell that they are "cut" they look flat all the way across. Do you have a photo that shows cut tires that you could send me? The car has been in storage since July 2004 and the brake fluid had moisture in it as well as the tires have been on the ground on the car for the same time. I have to get a Durometer to check hardness. The tires feel like a brick when you push on them!
I am going to check the brakes and change the fluid as you mentioned soon. I am heavier than the guy that the car was set up for. I am about 50lbs heavier since he was a scrawny young fellow. The car is set up for oval right now and I have to purchase 2 new springs to change the setup. I am also going to get a set of scales over the winter along with some set up tools. These will allow me to see just what I have and what I am doing. Anything else that you can offer advice is appreciated.
Thanks,LB

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 4:33 am 
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Lane, depending on how much camber is cut into the tires it should be easy to tell by looking at the tread. If the tread is the same depth across the tire they aren't.....still might have been shaved though. Also if you take the tire off and roll it (or stand it up) you should notice the tilt in a camber cut tire. The 2 1/2 deg cut into my road course tires is really obvious. Not sure what amount an oval racer's tires would be cambered though.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2005 11:39 am 
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Never had brake fade with my legends car on the road course circut, but had problems with the brakes when I purchased my car. I took the whole system apart, flushed the lines, rebuilt the calipers and cylinders and put it back together. I use regular DOT 3 brake fluid from NAPA with no problems. Since then I have had no brake failures or problems.

Check to make sure the motor is legal and adjust the car for road racing. If you still have problems with the rear tires breaking loose, adjust the pinion angle and go to softer rear springs. A good place to start is 225 up front and 200 in the back.

Mike #54


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