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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 9:39 am
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All,
The links went dead in my first thread and for some reason that ID got picked up as something to do with spamming, so I'll re-do over here.

Everyone,
I’m posting this to document the conversion of standard SN-95 ABS from my FOX Mustang over to the new “oh my God” Ford Racing ABS…

The first thing to consider is the location and mounting of the ABS unit itself. My SN95 ABS unit is/was in the passenger floorboard. Therefore, I already had all the lines (2 supply and 3 outlet) run around the car.

The stock HCU bracket could be easily manipulated to mount 2 points to the floorboard and I built a simple spacer to mount the third point. The mount has plenty of vibration isolation, so you can grab and shake the HCU in the mount. This gave me good feelings that vibration from the car during a race would not cause excessive issues with the HCU and ABS electronics.

The stock supply lines and outlet lines were “close enough” to just cut and flare for a simple union fitting. For the new lines going into the HCU, I just purchased AutoZone double flare 3/16 line. This was good for 2 of the 6 lines, but the other four required that line, but a M12 conversion nut to be purchased. You can also get these at AutoZone, etc. I also removed the rear prop valve, as the FR500 unit does that on it’s own. I did have to run a second rear line, as the S-197 system is a 4 channel and the SN95 is a 3 channel system. This consisted of just another few sections of 3/16 line running parallel to the original rear line.

If you want to flip flop back and forth between ABS/no ABS, install the prop valve in the rear supply line BEFORE the HCU. That would allow you to run wide open (no pressure drop) for ABS function, or reduce the pressure if the ABS is disabled. I chose not to do this, as I’m going to “set it and forget it”.

The only harness you need to source from a junk yard is the ABS plug.
Image

Here is the plumbing layout for the HCU
Image

Here is the wiring diagram. For older cars, I just ignored the PCM portions.
Image

The brake position switch can be made from a 5 pole 30A relay.
Image

The speed sensor wire colors from the SN95 system match this diagram, so that is pretty nice…
Image

I don’t have any pictures of the wheel speed sensor mounting, but it’s a simple redrill/tap for the new clocking on the S-197 sensors. The SN95 were just a magnet pole sticking out, so there was no orientation required. To drill/tap the rear caliper brackets, I found it easier to just remove the axles from the car and remove the caliper mounting plates from the axle and drill on a drill press.

The front spindles on my car didn’t want to come off easily, so I drilled by hand on the car. Not the easiest, but worked fine.
Image

All in all, I would put the installation difficulty at a 6 out of 10. Not super difficult, but time consuming to lay out in your head and then it’s just time… Having a welder, drill press, and overall shop tools was nice, but you could probably get away without them.

I’d say that since I had ABS on the car already, this entire conversion (not counting my time) was about $1100 in parts

$525 HCU
$50 ABS harness
$125 wheel speed sensors
$260 FR ABS Module
$25 Brake Fluid
$75 Brake Line and fittings
$25 Diff fluid and gasket
$15 5 pole relay with harness


The only thing I haven’t addressed at this point is the diagnostic port (Module Communications Network) section 14-2 on the diagram. I still need to do research on how to wire an OBDII port to these wires so I can trouble shoot the system.



Here is the parts list of what you will need to buy…

GT500 HCU
7R3Z-2C215-C

ABS Module
You want the "M-2353-A" sensor. The -A part is the FR500S module. The -B and -C are the same module for the new Boss cars, just with or without the bracket. I would guess the tune is for Pirelli slicks.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/search.asp?q=2353

Wheel Speed Sensors
BRAB-290 (rear)
BRAB-291 (front)
http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/part_n ... abs-sensor
This is the cheapest place I could find and it was free shipping. They are Motorcraft parts.
These sensors plug into the stock SN95 plugs and are approximately the same length as the SN95 harnesses, so you shouldn't have to manipulate the body harness.


Also, some lessons learned from the first thread.

1. The FR ABS module was too much for my car/driving style. I got WAY too much rear brake on trail braking and had corner entry oversteer. I tried several different rear pads and couldn't get it to behave so I ended up going to the GT500 module. It works much better for my application.

2. Another racer in TX is trying to see if the SN95/SN99 wheel speed sensors will work, as they are still a 2-wire sensor. That would keep you from having to re-drill the spindle and adjust the clearance between the exciter ring and the sensor. I haven't had any issues with the wheel speed sensors, so probably won't go back to the old style.

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Marshall Mosty
AI Series Director
NASA/TX AI #67


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:05 am 
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Forum Spectator
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 10:46 am
Posts: 16
Location: Howell, MI
Any chance we can get the links restored? I can host them if necessary.

I got the GT500 HCU with GT500 module.

I run a fox body in autocross. Moving from 'C' prepared to CAM-C class which allows me more modifications.

Currently running C6 vet front calipers and Varga C4 HD rears, AX6 pads on all four. Brakes are currently manual. Ran the CNC-241 dual master with 3/4" MC's last season but not happy with the performance. I have a Hydratech hydro boost on order.

Couple of questions:

1. Anyone have the wiring diagrams, pin out charts? Looking for the stock GT500 and the FR500 info.
2. What about bleeding the system, do I need any special tools to activate the solenoids in the HCU? Or will a simple pressure bleed work?

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Rob T
Detroit SSCA
AutoX, ProSolo
93' Mustang CP, CAM-C


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 12:23 pm 
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Forum Racer
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:28 pm
Posts: 409
Location: Nashua, NH
Ill be doing the install in Jan. on my FFR.

Couple of things to note.. I found a part# that has HCU and control module and bracket
ABS MODULE WITH HYDRAULICS BOSS 302R/S HCU M-2353-BA https://www.shopcapaldiracing.com/store ... block.html

(may need FR500S abs module M-2353-A https://www.shopcapaldiracing.com/store ... odule.html )

I found the ABS harness on amazon here
ABS Connector $41.36 Motorcraft WPT1234 Pigtail Assembly http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B5 ... ailpages00


and the bubble flare fittings you need you can get at any autoparts store
Fittings (to calipers) – 4 of 10M x 1.0 bubble flare to 3/16 line
Fittings (from master cylinders) – 2 of 12M x 1.0 bubble flare to 3/16 line

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ST2 FFR Challenge #48, Street legal. http://www.johngeorgeracing.com


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 1:13 pm 
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Forum Spectator
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 10:46 am
Posts: 16
Location: Howell, MI
I just picked up a low mileage 07-09 GT500 unit off ebay for $200 (HCU w/GT500 control module)

Here's the wiring diagram for the HCU

Image

Image

Here's the C135 wiring harness connector pin out

Image

Image

Here's the ports and sizes

Image

Image

Good find on the wiring pigtail!!

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Rob T
Detroit SSCA
AutoX, ProSolo
93' Mustang CP, CAM-C


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 4:26 am 
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Forum Spectator
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Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 10:27 am
Posts: 38
John,
M-2353-BA is complete with pump, bracket and module.
The pigtail you referenced is for the earlier ABS and will not fit M-2353-BA
M-2353-BA went back to inverted flairs for some reason.

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Paul Faessler
Paul's Automotive Engineering
65 mustang #1 AIX
2008 AIX NATIONAL CHAMPION


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 5:09 am 
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Forum Racer
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:28 pm
Posts: 409
Location: Nashua, NH
74mach wrote:
John,
M-2353-BA is complete with pump, bracket and module.
The pigtail you referenced is for the earlier ABS and will not fit M-2353-BA
M-2353-BA went back to inverted flairs for some reason.


I have both wire pigtail wpt1234 and m-2353-ba and they plug into each other. Not sure if you are referring to another pigtail but what I got works

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ST2 FFR Challenge #48, Street legal. http://www.johngeorgeracing.com


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 7:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 10:46 am
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Location: Howell, MI
The WPT-1234 is a 38 pin connector. Searching it's part # BU2Z-14S411-BAA it's shown listed for 2011-2015 Mustang (all models) along with F150's and Super Dutys.

The pin-out (C135) for the 07-09 GT500's shows a 46 pin connector. The 46 pin connector is WPT-1356.

Image

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pubs/content/connectors/images/connectorcatalog.pdf

Here's a picture of the FR500s vs. GT500 ABS module.

Image

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Rob T
Detroit SSCA
AutoX, ProSolo
93' Mustang CP, CAM-C


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 10:32 am 
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Location: Howell, MI
Difference in the ABS module plugs

2009 Mustang C135

Image

2010 Mustang C135

Image

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Detroit SSCA
AutoX, ProSolo
93' Mustang CP, CAM-C


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 10:46 am
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Location: Howell, MI
Ok found this for the WPT-1356 pigtail

The listing for the WPT-1356 is E350. Under w/Adav tech wiring I found the following pin connector and the replacement pig tail called out is the WPT-1356.

Image

The replacement pigtail shown

Image

The image lists it as the WPT-1234 but if you search the BU2Z-14S411-BBA part number it's a WPT-1356. The image also matches the Motorcraft wiring harness catalog pic.

The problem is the pin out between the WPT-1356 and the GT500 Module.

If you compare the pin outs the E350 C155 connector (what the WPT-1356 replaces) has (5) extra wires (10, 20, 24, 34 & 39) not used in the C135. One important pin is not wired #6 which is voltage supplied all the time.

You can probably move one of the (5) extra wires into the #6 spot.

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Rob T
Detroit SSCA
AutoX, ProSolo
93' Mustang CP, CAM-C


Last edited by tcgrmt on Fri Nov 13, 2015 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 1:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 10:46 am
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Location: Howell, MI
John can you post a pic of your WPT-1234 connector?

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Detroit SSCA
AutoX, ProSolo
93' Mustang CP, CAM-C


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